The historic Ano Poli (Upper Town) of Thessaloniki is undergoing a transformation as the municipal administration, led by Mayor Stelios Angeloudis, proceeds with a long-term plan to upgrade one of the city's most picturesque and culturally significant districts.
Known for its Byzantine and Ottoman heritage, cobbled streets and sweeping views over the Thermaic Gulf, Ano Poli is the only part of Thessaloniki to have survived the Great Fire of 1917. Yet in recent decades, a growing number of abandoned and expropriated buildings have fallen into ruin, creating safety risks and public health concerns.
Since November, a large-scale demolition operation has been underway. According to Deputy Mayor for Technical Works and Sustainable Mobility Prodromos Nikiforidis, around eight buildings near the historic walls and within the urban fabric have already been pulled down, with more to follow. "There are many buildings in a dilapidated condition and some that have been expropriated. The operation will continue for a long time," he said, describing the effort as a difficult undertaking.
The first phase focuses on the eastern and central sections of Ano Poli. Many of the abandoned structures had deteriorated into unsanitary hazards and were being used as makeshift shelters linked to petty crime. In one striking case, Nikiforidis noted that a building earmarked for demolition remained occupied until the last moment, even though compensation had already been paid to former occupants. A second phase will target unsafe buildings along the northwestern walls, close to the neighbouring district of Sykies.
Beyond demolition, the city's ambition is to reclaim cleared plots for public use. Once access and topographical surveys are completed, the municipality plans to create a "green promenade" along the historic fortifications, turning former problem sites into walkways and recreational spaces. "At the moment, on the walls, you have ovens, tiles, storage rooms," Nikiforidis said, stressing the urgency of restoring the monuments.
The Ministry of Culture and the Ephorate of Antiquities of Thessaloniki are expected to step in to restore the walls once adjoining structures have been removed. Meanwhile, the city is preparing a broader urban study for Ano Poli with technical support from the European Investment Bank. New playgrounds and parks have already been delivered, and four Ottoman fountains are set to run with water again in the coming months.
By Katia Gerakaritou - adapted from Greek by Vassia Barba
